Navigate the list of programs until you find KitchenDraw 6.5 or simply click the Search field and type in 'KitchenDraw 6.5'. If it is installed on your PC the KitchenDraw 6.5 app will be found very quickly. When you click KitchenDraw 6.5 in the list of apps, some data regarding the application is available to you. I run a 15 amp per bank. My first charger was a 5 amp per bank, and if I fished 12 hours or more in a day my 31 series batteries would sometimes be drained almost 100%. The 5 amp charger would only have the batteries charged maybe 60-70% the next morning, and then at many times that day the batteries would be dead by mid or late afternoon.
Let me start with a disclaimer: BatteryStuff.com does not sell inexpensive, off-the-shelf chargers often found at retail outlets and certain other online stores. We cater specifically to microprocessor-controlled chargers, also known as. All the chargers we stock are reviewed, tested and selected based on function, reliability and durability.These chargers are designed to charge lead acid and other types of batteries based on computer-generated algorithms. Simply put, the charger collects information from the battery and adjusts the charge current and voltage based on this information. This allows the battery to be charged quickly, correctly, and completely when using a smart charger. All the chargers we sell can remain connected to a battery indefinitely and will not overcharge or damage it.Here are some simple steps to select the right charger for your needs. Step 1: Choosing a Charger Based on Battery TypeWhether your battery is maintenance free, wet cell (flooded), AGM (absorbed glass mat), gel cell or VRLA (valve-regulated lead acid), one charger should work for all types except for gel cell. However, some of our will work well with the other battery types.
Step 2: Determining Battery SizeWe don’t mean physical size, but how many amp hours your battery stores. For example, a typical full-size auto battery is about 50 amp hours, so you would choose a that would take about 6 hours to recharge it if the battery were completely dead. Another instance would be a marine deep cycle battery rated at 100 amp hours. It would take a 10 amp charger about 11 hours to recharge a dead battery to near 100% full charge.
To calculate your total charge time, a good rule of thumb is to take the amp hour rating of the battery and divide by the charger rating (amps) and then add about 10% for the extra time to totally top off the battery.Some folks wanting quick recharge should look for a charger with more amps. If you’re not in a hurry, you can select a smaller charger.
The most important thing is to make sure you have enough charger power to do the job you require in the time you allocate. Step 3: Choosing a Battery Charger Based on Desired OutcomeSome folks require a charger to keep their motorcycle, classic car, or aircraft battery charged during the offseason.
In these cases, a simple will work fine. Others require a to quickly restore a trolling motor battery or a wheelchair battery set. Other types of chargers and the reasons you might need them:. MULTI VOLTAGE Input chargers for use when visiting a foreign country. Waterproof chargers for those times when you’re out in the elements. Chargers that double as power supplies for RV use. for charging multiple batteries simultaneouslyHopefully, we’ve helped you figure out which is the best charger for your.
Rza I’m planning to purchase a 12v 35amp hour AGM battery for use with a cpap machine while camping. We have also selected a 400w continuous use/800w peak power inverter to use. I’m having a hard time knowing what type of charger to purchase, as I’m on a tight budget. I know you have higher quality chargers listed, which is great, but I don’t know what type of charger I can use at all. A lot of the reviews mention float chargers, which works for storage – but I need something that will ensure the machine is able to run at night, and can be charged via wall socket during the day. BatteryStuff Tech We get this question quite a bit, so don’t worry about being confused! The first thing you need to figure out is how your going to run a CPAP machine off a battery.
Are you going to use the inverter? Using an inverter is not my first choice as they draw more out of the battery, than going straight off the battery. If you look at your 3rd power rating it tells you the CPAP Machine can run directly off a battery with a rating of 12VDC, which is a 12 volt battery, and it will pull 6.67 Amps an hour. Now you may think that is more amperage than using the inverter, which draws 100-240VAC @ 2.1 Amps. However, when you calculate that back to the battery it is pulling 23.18 Amps an hour!
So going off the battery is a better choice! You will most likely have to contact the CPAP manufacturer for a 12v accessory meant to run the machine directly off the battery, but it is far more efficient.Next, either way your 35 AH rated battery would not work, as you don’t want to discharge your battery more than 50%. My suggestion would be to use two calculators to first select your correct battery. First if your going to use the inverter you will need the to obtain your DC Amp Draw.
Then plug the DC amp draw into the to figure out what AH rated battery you need based off how many hours you plan to sleep. And, finally in order to answer your question about charging You can select a smart charger that has an amp rating of up to 25% of the batteries AH rating. So if you end up with a 100AH rated battery you can use a 25 Amp Charger. Charging any faster could hurt the battery, and we only recommend smart chargers for charging. Tim Hi there.I’m doing a summer project and was wondering about deep cycle batteries.I understand that when connecting the same batteries in parallel, it will have the same voltage but will double up in the Ah.
However, let’s say I am charging the battery in parallel.Let’s assume that the rating max charging current for a battery is 5 Amps and I have an 8 Amp charger. Would connecting the battery in parallel be able to handle 8 Amp charger?
(Meaning that the rating max charge current will be 10 amps instead of 5 amps?? Or would the max rating current to charge is still 5 amps and can not handle it. I was wondering about this because wouldn’t that mean the battery will charge slower if it only takes in 5 amps?
I guess it might be better for the battery life but was wondering if it could handle it)Thanks for your help. BatteryStuff Tech Please keep in mind we only recommend interconnecting batteries that are of the same age, capacity, chemistry, and if you plan to employ them as a battery pack. We however do not recommend connecting batteries together that you are not going to employ as a battery pack. The answer to your questions is yes, assuming these are lead acid batteries. If a single battery has a max amp rating of 5 amps, and you put that battery in parallel to increase the amp/hr, then the max rate is thereby increased, so it would now be 10 amps. The reason this works is the charge is spread out among both batteries, and not just one.
LRF I have a AGM battery that was originally used on a solar sysytem. I have a Schumacher charger that has a setting for this type battery. The other day I went to charge it and it was very low 9% according to the charger. It charged fairly quickly to about 62% then plateaued off. I noticed that the wires next to the clamps got very hot. Any thoughts? My goal is to take this battery with me camping and use it with my CPAP machine.I dont have it in front of me but its 12 Volt.
About the size of a large car battery.Thanks. BatteryStuff Tech Charging cables heating up could be the result of a couple of factors. Heat is a sign of resistance, which means the current coming from the charger isn’t being accepted somewhere along the line.
If the battery is also heating up that could elude to a bad battery not being able to accept the charge, and it might be time to replace the battery. If the battery is not heating up, but the wire at the connection point is, i would try cleaning the terminals and ensuring you have a good connection. Richard An excellent and very informative article, thank you!I have a newer sealed, maintenance free, mid-range (in terms of quality) standard AGM 12v deep-cycle Marine/RV battery930 marine cranking amps, 145 minutes reserve capacity, 75 amp-hours.This is my first experience with AGM batteries of any sort.My question: Is the electrolyte, absorbed into the glass matting, in these AGM batteries subject to stratification in the same way that the electrolyte in a flooded wet battery is?Reason I ask: I use a smart charger that incorporates 8 steps in the charging/maintenance cycle. The 1st step is an automatic desulfation step.
The 6th step is an OPTIONAL step that can be used occasionally to “recondition” or destratify the electrolyte in flooded wet batteries. This is accomplished by the application of 15.8v, for short periods of time depending on the voltage of the battery, to induce out-gassing and turbulence due to the rising bubbles.
Destratification occurs when the turbulence causes the electrolyte to be mixed and rendering the SG uniform throughout the depth of the cell.My obvious next question: Will it ever be necessary, or even safe, to use this optional 6th “reconditioning” step when charging/maintaining this mid-range, deep-cycle AGM battery? BatteryStuff Tech span class='caps'AGM Batteries have the electrolyte absorbed into the fiberglass matting so stratification is not a concern with these batteries, such in wet cells where the acid can separate from the water. The other main reason to equalize a battery is to cause the sulfation to dissolve back into the electroylte, however not all AGM battery manufacturers recommend this processes, as some AGM batteries are not meant to withstand this type of charge. The process of equalizing a battery causes the battery to heat up and gas. While the gassing can work itself out of the battery vents, some manufacturers do not have large inner cell connectors to withstand that type of charge. Is one of the manufacturers we carry that does promote equalizing their batteries.
In the end you need to contact the manufacturer of your battery to see what they recommend. BatteryStuff Tech It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If your just looking to maintain a fully charged battery pack with no draw coming off the batteries I would generally recommend a panel similar to our for your capacity. Going any smaller just doesn’t work as well when the batteries get older, and start to discharge at a higher rate.
This ensures that a good charge is going to the battery pack daily, and it can get the batteries top off fairly quickly if your have a long stretch of bad weather. If your trying to design a system to supplement energy coming off the batteries then I suggest reading our article. This article will get you started in the right direction. Nick Bointon We have a catering trailer which has a bank of 6 × 120amp/hr 12v batteries powering an 4000w inverter to run fridges, microwaves etc. The normal consumption is probably only 600w. We have a honda 1000EUi generator which is1000w rated 900w. We run this to charge the batteries.
We need a regulated charger of the maximum we can run from this generator, 40amp? What is the maximum we could run? Great site by the way, we have nothing similar in the UK which is where w are based, but the electrical info is international! Trevor Hello, I was hoping you could advise on battery charging for a large electric boat project. The battery pack consists of twelve Enersys SBS- EON-190F AGM batteries wired in series for three banks of 48 volts. Each battery bank providing 4×190Ah.
I’ve heavy load relays that I may use to wire the three banks in temporary parallel or they could be hard wired together for the 12×190Ah power pack. These batteries require a fast charge cell voltage of 2.40V for frequent heavy discharge. It’s a monster battery pack I know but I’m hoping to achieve recharge in a day or less. Paul Mulvenna Excellent article.
Just wanted to make sure I’m right in thinking I can’t have too high a current from a charger for a battery so long as I don’t leave it charging too long? I bought my son a Peg Perego 12V John Deere Gator ride on for his birthday which comes with a 12V 12AH sealed lead acid battery. The supplied charger is only rated 0.5A so takes an overnight period to charge the battery each time it runs down (leading to an unhappy boy). If I was to buy a higher powered 12V charger (e.g. 8A) I could safely charge the same battery in about 100 minutes based on your formula – is that correct?
BatteryStuff Tech If you have a charger that you can set the voltage depending on the stage, I would suggest talking to the manufacturer of the batteries, so you can charge them based off their recommendation. We sell smart chargers that are already pre-configured based off their history of the manufacturers experience. IOTA has theirs set to Output Voltage Charging 59.04 V, Bulk Absorption Voltage 56.64 V, and Float Voltage 52.24 V.
Every manufacturer is a little different, which is why I would recommend talking to the battery manufacturer. Debbie I just purchased two AGM Optima Blue Top batteries (D27M) to use as house batteries on my houseboat (I live aboard). The Optima Blue Top batteries are replacing two wet cell batteries. I have been told I can’t use my current charger (Charles 9000 Series) with the Optima batteries. So now it looks like I need to buy and install a new battery charger. Do you agree? Or can a Charles 9000 Series also charge AGM batteries?My current charger has three “banks”.
One for the house batteries (in series), one for the port engine, and one for the stbd engine. I also have a battery for the generator which is not on a charger. If I’m buying a new charger, I’d like to get one with four banks to cover all the batteries. The engine and generator starting batteries are all wet cell.Can you recommend some choices for a battery charger.From the SPEC Sheet for the Optima Batteries (recommended charging info is:Recommended Charging InformationAlternator: 13.65 to 15.0 voltsBattery Charger: 13.8 to 15.0 volts; 10 amps maximum; 6-12 hours approximateFloat Charge: 13.2 to 13.8 volts; 1 amp maximum; (indefinite time at lower voltages)Rapid Recharge (Constant voltage charger): Maximum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp.Cyclic or Series String Applications:: 14.7 volts.
No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 3 amp constant current for 1 hour.All limits must be strictly adhered to.Performance DataCold Cranking Amps: 800Cranking Amps: 1000Nominal Voltage: 12 voltsOpen Circuit Voltage (fully charged): 13.1 voltsInternal Resistance (fully charged): 0.0025 ohmsCapacity: 66 Ah (C/20)Reserve Capacity: BCI: 140 minutes (25 amp discharge, 80°F (26.7°C), to 10.5 volts cut-off). Scott Ivins I have a Skeeter zx225 boat, 225 Yammy (03)and I run 2 hummingbird 997sihd electronics. I also have a minnkota 36V 101 TM on the bow. Previous electronics were older lowrance units and TM was a 24v system. I have recently upgraded my batteries to sears DH premiums 31m (AH 20/hr rate-100/capacity AH10hr/rate-92; CCA-1150; RC-205. Charger is a noco genius 4 bank (40 amp total).
Previous set up had 2 positive wires (6g i think) coming from bow and connected to battery 1 + and the other to battery 2 +why? I took the one off and just use the main + cable on battery 3 and the neg on battery 1 and +/- jumper between batteries 1/2/3. Does jumper have to be same size as main power wire? What guage do you recommned for jumpers? Does my system seem rightand what is the best way to test voltage output? Rick W This seems excessive. Since the Law of the Conservation of Energy applies, then the input power (Wac) must be equal to the output power (Wdc), then since the input voltage in this case is 120Vac and output voltage is 12Vdc, the ratio is 10:1, which means that the current (Amps) must be in inverse proportion to maintain the equal power.
In this case, the input current is 5Aac, so the output current must be 50Adc. Since the inverter apparently adds 15% to the power consumption, then the output current will then be 57.5Adc. Since the OP wants it to last for 8 hours, then it seems that the AH rating of the battery would only need to be 460AH (57.5Adc.8H), or a Reserve Capacity (RC) rating of 1104 minutes (8hr.60mins/hr=480mins@25A.2.3 since the battery has to supply 57.5 A instead of 25A).We would require more information about your situation. Please contact one of our techs at. Audrey Hello! Your site is a fantastic resource!I‘m trying to size a multi-bank battery charger for a boat.
It will float charge 2 lead acid starting batteries, one generator starting battery, and a house bank consisting of (6) 220AH 6V golf cart batteries connected series-parallel (The house system is 110-120VAC). I have a 5000W inverter and a 7500W gas-powered Kohler generator to produce AC when anchored/underway. The load on the house bank batteries will be no more than 20a (DC), but will vary over my intended use time of 12-16 hours between charging opportunities. Im looking for a fast charge time, because occasionally the charge source will be the gas generator, and the less that runs, the better.I suspect my inverter is sized with a greater capacity than my battery bank can safely support. But it‘s what I have.I would also love to be able to manually select the charging source for the house bank to switch between the engines’ alternators or a solar array in addition to the generator. Everything is 12V.Two questions: Do you see any holes in my plan, and for the charger is my best option to get as many amps as I can afford?Thanks in advance! E-astronomer Thank you for this great information!
After studying many articles and web sites, including those specifically from authors writing about my own area of interest in batteries, I believe I found most of my answers (or at least solid confirmations and clarifications) here. But I still have a couple of questions because some of those other writings contradict each other and your material in a couple of ways. BatteryStuff Tech The truth is, the less you draw down on the battery, the more cycles the battery will provide. There is no golden rule. If you only use 10% capacity at a time, then I say you have spent more money on battery power than you‘re utilizing. If you draw 90% at a time, then have too little battery power and you will find yourself replacing it very prematurely.
50% depth of discharge per cycle is our recommendation because it‘s the most cost effective solution.Having any sort of connection (even unplugged) to a battery will technically cause a very minimal discharge, but it is so insignificant, that I wouldn‘t worry about it if I were you. Mike Love your site and your service. One question I have I just purchased a Motocross YTZ14S from you folks for my Honda VFR800. I believe that the battery I received was an AGM, but I‘m not sure. Its not listed anywhere on the battery itself, nor is it on the invoice. I‘m using a Noco G1100 to keep it charged.
As I‘m sure you know, The G1100 can run in Normal mode, or Cold/AGM mode. Will it harm it to use the Normal mode for charging or do I have to use the AGM mode?
The manual for the charger says that if your unsure of the battery makeup, use the Normal mode. What does the charger do differently in AGM mode? Thanks for any light you can shed on this. Rocky I recently purchased a Schumacher SSC-1000a smart charger for my new AGM marine battery. I have monitored the charging cycle and see no evidence of a 3 step process whereby the regulated voltage is dropped back as the battery approaches full charge. I have monitored this voltage with my digital meter and the digital voltage reading on the charger itself and have noticed the regulated voltage increases more as the battery approaches full charge. Butterflies and hurricanes piano sheet music youtube.
On the 10 amp rate the regulated voltage is just over 16 volts near full charge. And on the 6 amp rate the regulated voltage is just under 16 volts near full charge. This happens the same on the standard setting with a lead acid battery.Is my charger working properly? Or is it not really a smart charger? Don Eddy I live full time in a 1977 GMC motorhome. Three batteries/bank: 1 red top, 1 yellow top, and 2 6v golf cart.
Red for the engine; yellow for the 6K genset (Onan); golf carts for the house. Solenoids separate all three until the ignition is on.Converter, 40 amp, has never fully charged the three units with the ignition on; nor even the house and genset batteries with the ignition off. Now the converter is not operating. I need a converter/charger that will do the job through perhaps a change in wiring? Kevin Hello.I have a basic folding camper. The units were never factory fitted with electrics let alone a charging system. Which may well be a good thing as the most popular UK charging units fitted to caravans, campers and trailer tents only charges at 13.6V.
So not only does it take an age to charge it never fully charges. My choice previously has just been to use a “dumb” charger. You sell intelligent chargers, now until recently I‘d never seen intelligent chargers with high single digit AH rates let alone double digit AH rates. Now I may well use a low rated intelligent charger to keep my battery conditioned when at home but what about on site? If I‘m on an EHU (Electric Hook Up not sure American term) I‘m not charging and running the battery in separate cycles.
A whole range appliances may be plugged in whilst charging the battery. Does the use of appliances confuse the charger? How does it asses the battery if at the same time resistive loads, inductive loads or both are being taken out.The batteries used tend to be 80AH or 100AH “pseudo” leisure batteries.
I say pseudo leisure batteries because there is some debate in the UK on how much thicker the plates are on these starter sized batteries as against the full thickness in 2V cells. Simple lead acid batteries or glass mat are generally used.
The demands light (ish) lighting, audio, limited TV, water pump.To be honest as demand is low and temp reasonable battery life is quite good. More a case of being curious how intelligent chargers work if you‘re taking load at the same time?Thanks In Anticipation. BatteryStuff Tech With smart chargers, if they are on and charging and they ‘sense’ a load applied to the batteries, they will automatically attempt to supply the load so the batteries will not be discharged. Most chargers are not rated to handle a full load and they can burn out. However, we have chargers that are also power supplies (converters).Iota, Power Max, and Samlex are the brands of chargers that we carry with this capability. They can charge the batteries and at the same time supply a load to your applications up to the rated charge rate of the charger (in amps).
For instance, a 12 volt 30 amp charger can supply a load up to 30 amps. If the load is higher, at that point the batteries will be used for the remainder. Gordon I currently have a 24V set-up in my bass boat for the trolling motor. I upgraded to Optima Blue top batteries a few months ago. I installed a new 3-bank, 10amp DualPro charger the same day I installed the new batteries. I fully charged the batteries before using the boat. About two weeks later we fished a 3-day tournament and promptly wore out two new, fully charged Optima batteries in 7-8 hours of fishing each day.
Yes, I charged them all night before the first fishing day. My partner lays on the trolling motor well more than I do: however, killing the batteries wasn‘t really the issue. Well, other than listening to him gripe about it and how HIS Skeeter‘s 36V TM system lasts all day and THEN SOME.Anyway – I plugged in between 4pm-6pm on day #1 day (at our lodging on normal electricity) to charge the batteries.
By 5am THE NEXT MORNINGthe batteries were STILL NOT FULLY CHARGED. Same thing happened on morning #2 and #3. The starting battery was was obviously fully charged each day; however, depending on the TM battery, one may have been about 90% charged; the other in it‘s final stage (like 98%). The next day one TM battery was like 80% and the other 90%after 12 hours on the juice.
Brand new batteries on a brand new charger. I don‘t get it!!Optima “recommends” using 10A chargers on their blue top batteries (if not all their batteries). I‘m considering moving to a 36V trolling motor. Here‘s my question. I‘m going to have to upgrade to a 4-bank charger to do this. I don‘t want to trash two Optima batteries that I just bought. I also don‘t want to wait 12-hours to have fully charged batteries.
The charger I want to go to chargers at 30A, and I don‘t think it has a regulator (Protournament 300 Quad). That said, will 30A charger HURT the Optima batteries?10A is going to take 10-12 hours to recharge a depleted trolling motor batteryno biggie for non-tournament fishingbut when you need the boat ready to go 12 hours after you get out of it12 hours to charge two 12V batteries ain‘t cutting it. Had I known it was going to take 12-hours to get a full charge I wouldn‘t have bought the Optima batteries. To hear my partner tell it, his Odyessy batteries are FAR SUPERIOR to Optima anyway. BatteryStuff Tech Not every smart charger will have the “voltage ramp up”. Those that do, such as the Soneil or Noco genius, the voltage spike is the first thing it does, to quickly remove fresh sulfation.
This high voltage to a discharged battery will not overcharge it. Once the battery is full, it will keep and miantain it. The voltage will not spike to 15 or 16 volts when the battery should be kept at 13.2.Other chargers, such as Pulse Tech or Battery MINDer removes sulfation with high frequency pulses, not voltage pulses. This is safe, harmless, and effective in restoring battery life when used regularly.